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One of the most common requests I get is to suggest a vacation destination that has lots of outdoor activity and adventure.  Getting outside, being active, and seeing lots of wildlife seems to make everyone happy.  I know that formula works for my family!
 

So here are some vacation destinations you might not think of right of right away, which are great for the active family.   There is something for every age on this list, and several which are perfect for a multi-generational group.
PUERTO RICO – This gorgeous Caribbean island offers a wealth of activities, from cultural sites to impressive national parks.  Some of my favorites:  kayaking in a bioluminescent bay, hiking in El Yunque rainforest, and snorkeling in Culebra’s Luis Peña Channel Natural Reserve.   You can also visit Rio Camuy Cave Park or check out Rincon, one of the Caribbean’s top surfing destinations.  The bonus: no passport needed!
 

Culebra kayak and snorkel excursion
Hiking in El Yunque

SWITZERLAND – While known as a great destination for hiking and spectacular alpine scenery, there are quite a few other activities for adventure seekers.  The Bernese Oberland offers bungee jumping off a canyon wall into glacial gorge, or even out of a gondola suspended over a lake.  And there’s whitewater rafting and canyoning for all ability levels, some routes including high rappels, water slides, and zip lines.


Canyon water slides
Matterhorn hiking
EXPEDITION CRUISE – Don’t skip this paragraph because you saw the word “cruise.”  I’m not talking about a 2000-3000 passenger vessel that offers midnight buffets and Vegas-style shows.  These are small ships, often with fewer than 100 passengers, that focus on the destination and the activities, not onboard entertainment.  Their small size allows you to get up close and personal with wildlife and scenery in destinations like the Galapagos Islands, Alaska, Antarctica, South America, and Asia.   And they have a fleet of kayaks and zodiacs for even closer exploration (plus snorkeling gear where suitable).
Galapagos with Lindblad Expeditions
ARCTIC CANADA –   Been there, done that?  Now this is a list of activities that you will be hard pressed to find anywhere else: kayaking with narwhals, hiking in Inuit territory, hot air ballooning between icebergs, polar bear safaris.  You’ll have cocktail party bragging rights for many years to come!
 

Polar Bear Viewing with
Natural Habitat Adventures 

Note that even places that are not normally considered “active” destinations have fun adventures, you just have to know where to look.  For example, companies like Butterfield & Robinson and Backroads offer cycling, hiking, and multisport tours in many European countries.  If you don’t want to cycle or hike for a whole week, I can arrange just a day or tour of outdoor activity, such as cycling in The Hague or rock climbing and a high ropes course in the Dolomites.

Backroads in France
San Juan Islands
For some inspiration on where to go for you next outdoor adventure, check out the 2014 Virtuoso VAST catalog. That should spark your imagination!
One of the most interesting places to visit on Maui is Haleakala, the 10,023 ft. volcano which makes up the east side of the island.  There are two facts that surprise many visitors:  it is not a dormant volcano, it just doesn’t erupt very often, only every 200-500 years.  (The last one was 200-250 years ago.) And the moonlike depression in the center is not a true crater; it’s simply a product of erosion.  But everyone refers to it as a crater because that’s so much easier to say!
The moon or Maui?
Astronauts actually did lunar landing training here.
Haleakala is not a quick side trip to be checked out on a whim.   The drive one way takes 2-3 hours depending where you start, and the last hour is spent on 25 miles of twisting road and switchbacks.  It’s not a difficult drive, as the road is wide, paved, and well-marked.  And the views are spectacular.  But you have to take your time, and watch for cyclists.  Anyone prone to car sickness might want to give it a second thought.

Here we go!
One of the straighter sections
And you need to know what to expect.  Here are few tips before you head up to the summit:
Bring your own food and drink – It’s at least an hour drive back down the mountain to get to any restaurants or other services. 
Prepare for high wind – I suggest women bring a scarf they can tie around their chin, especially if they have long hair that will poke them in the eye or get stuck in their mouth.  A knit cap works if it fits securely.  Even a hat with a chin strap can get pulled off easily in the strong gusts.
Wishing I had a scarf right now!
Wear sunscreen – The sun’s rays are especially damaging in the thin atmosphere.
Bring layers to keep warm, and raingear or a water repellant jacket – It can be hot & sunny at sea level but wet & misty at the summit.  Even if it’s a clear day, the temperatures are much lower and the wind makes it feel much colder.
Bring binoculars – You will have panoramic views of the entire island, and can even see all the way to the Big Island on a clear day.

Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa in the distance
Watch the time if heading out on a trail into the crater – Distances are deceiving because of the lack of perspective, and a landmark may be much farther away than it appears.  Also remember that it will take twice as long to climb back up as it does to go down, and it will feel more strenuous due to the elevation.   Once the sun goes below the rim to cast shadows, temperatures drop very quickly, so don’t head out too late in the day.  (This one I can vouch for from experience!)
The trails down there are much further away than they look!
If you want a truly memorable experience, watch the sunrise from the summit.  This takes an especially hardy traveler, as you have get up insanely early while on vacation, and withstand temperatures that can dip below freezing.  But it’s worth one of the most beautiful and unique sunrises you will ever see.  And to add to the adventure, ride back down on a bike with one of the tour companies!

Sunrise circa 1988. I don’t expect it’s changed much.
A van full of thrill-seekers parked at the summit.
A nice stop on the way back to sea level is Grandma’s Coffee House, a family-owned business that has been roasting coffee on the premises for four generations.  It’s small and simple, but the food is good and reasonably priced, including  large sandwiches, homemade desserts, banana bread, and of course, excellent coffee.

Lots of Grandma’s pies in that case
For helping planning a fun and memorable trip to Maui, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.

Kea Lani means “white heaven,” and it doesn’t take long to see how perfect this name is for one of my favorite resorts on Maui.  Whenever I walk into the Fairmont Kea Lani’s beautiful lobby, the Mediterranean style architecture and expansive, lush landscaping makes me feel like I’ve just entered paradise.
 

Aaahh!

Here are some of the other reasons I, and many of my clients, love the Kea Lani:
It’s the best suite value on the island.  All the accommodations are800 sq ft one bedroom suites, and the starting price point is comparable to standard rooms at other hotels.  Other properties have a limited number of suites so they charge premium rates.  The entry foyer and bathroom are also very spacious, so there’s plenty of space to store bags, snorkel gear, etc.

One Bedroom Suite (king or two doubles plus sofabed)

Spacious lanai with views of Molokini and Kahoolawai
It’s in a quiet but convenient location. Wailea is a serene, country club setting, with much less traffic than Kaanapali or Lahaina, but there are still many restaurants and shops just a few minutes away.  A stroll along the oceanfront pathway leads to other resorts, offering lots of dining options in walking distance.  In Kihei, just 10 min away, is a shopping center with a full size grocery store and Hilo Hattie’s. 
 

Oceanfront lawn

It’s elegant but laid back.  Everyone can feel at home at the Kea Lani.  Service and accommodations are five star, but nobody is pretentious.
It works for everyone.  There are 3 swimming areas to accommodate all ages: an adults only pool, a two level family pool with water slide and swim-up bar, and a wading pool for little ones.  There are plenty of public spaces, so families can feel comfortable letting their kids play on the lawn and in the pool, while couples can find a quiet spot to relax (including a hidden hot tub).
 

Family pool, water slide, swim-up bar & grill
Adult pool
Lots of lawn with ocean views,
 plenty of chairs for everyone

It has a great beach. The beautiful crescent beach is public, like all beaches in Hawaii, but since there is no public parking nearby, it gets little use by non-hotel guests.  There is good snorkeling right off-shore, and it’s common to see turtles.
 

Polo Beach

Complimentary outrigger canoe experience
Oh, those villas! If you want more space and some of the conveniences of home, like a private plunge pool, full kitchen and washer and dryer, then book a 2 or 3 bedroom villa.  There is a large lawn in front, with plenty of space for kids to run around, and the beach is a just a few steps beyond.  They are perfect for larger families, multi-generational groups, or couples traveling together.
 

Oceanview villas
Villa living room and kitchen
Villa plunge pool


(You can read a testimonial from one of my clients in the the April issue of Virtuoso Traveler.)
Here’s how you can get even more value at the Fairmont Kea Lani:
Register for a Fairmont President’s Club number.  There is no charge, and you get extra benefits including free high speed internet (an upgrade to business premium at the Kea Lani), discounts in the spa and store, complimentary use of bikes, and in-room delivery of Reebok shoes and apparel, yoga mats, and stretch bands.

Let me book your stay so you receive Virtuoso amenities.  These include daily breakfast for two, an upgrade on arrival (based on availability), and a welcome gift valued at $100.  Plus my fantastic contacts at the resort will personally take care of your reservation, and ensure you have a great suite.

Buffet breakfast
For help planning your Hawaii vacation, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.

Another day in heaven ends

I really need to quit reading the Q&A in the newspaper’s travel section, because I always seem to get riled up.  Basically, readers write in with questions, such as what to do and see in a particular location, or what hotel or cruise is “the best.”  And they get a brief answer, usually with very specific recommendations.

If a client called and asked me any of these questions, we would spend a minimum of 15 minutes in conversation before I would consider giving them an answer.

No cookie cutter answers
for my clients!


In fact, I’d be asking them a whole lot of questions right back, such as:

  • Can you tell me more about who is going on this trip?
  • Why are you going, what is your vision, are you celebrating anything?
  • How old are your kids, what are their interests & activities?
  • What are your favorite hotels?  
  • What do you like to do on vacation?
  • Have you ever cruised before, traveled outside the US, etc?
  • What are your hotel “must haves” and what do you like to avoid?
  • Do you want to be in the middle of the action or do you want a quiet retreat?

And something that is really important to families: do you need guaranteed connecting rooms or a specific bedding arrangement?

The answers I receive usually create more questions: “So you’re taking along the grandparents.  Do they have any mobility issues, or they ok with stairs and long walking distances?”
Spiral staircase to get to breakfast
Paris elevator – not for claustrophobes!
You can buy a guidebook and or easily find on the internet a list of top attractions of any destination.  But is a book or a website going to say “Since you are a gourmet cook, why don’t you check out this market, it’s the best one in the city.  Or better yet, how about a Farm to Fork tour?” 

Farmer’s market in Provence
Or
“Since your teens are active and enjoy being outdoors, this is a great place to rent bikes to explore the area.”
Or
“This hotel has a zero-entry pool so it’s much easier to monitor your toddler, they can sit and splash in shallow water.  Then you don’t have to stand in the pool holding them the whole time.”  

Turks & Caicos waterpark
So you see there is no one right answer when it comes to travel.  Even the most expensive, top rated, most talked about hotel in the world is not “the best” hotel for everyone.  And the “must do/must see” list for a retired couple traveling alone is different from that of a family with young children.  
As for selecting a cruise, don’t even get me started! 
When you thing about the variables for just one destination:  the cruise line, the ships within that line, cabin types, ports visited, onboard activities, etc. it staggers the mind. 
 

Small ship
Big ship
Or something in-between

My job is to make sure I give the best answer for each and every client.  And that requires a lot of communication between us.  Many people email or call to ask about rates for a specific hotel, often because their friends recommended it.  Personal recommendations are great, I use them all the time.  But is that really the best fit for you, of ALL the hotels available? 

After all, think about your friends and family members.  Do you all drive the same model car?  Like the same food?  Have the same hobbies?  I have over 300 Facebook friends, but there are only a handful that have the same travel style as I do.
 

Do you like cool, modern elegance…

Or warm, rustic luxury?

One time I had just returned from the destination featured in the Q&A section.  And while the “expert” recommended a couple things I agree with, there were several things I think he/she missed, and I would have narrowed the list even further if I knew the ages of the travelers.  They also made a dining recommendation which baffled me, as the town had many other much better restaurants.

So don’t believe everything you read!  



For help with planning the perfect vacation just for you, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.
Spacious cottages, a beautiful beach, expansive lawns, an exclusive beach club, complimentary kids’ club, and gorgeous sunsets.  What more could you ask for in a family resort?  The Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara offers everything a family could want, whether traveling alone or with the grandparents, siblings, and cousins.   Located just 2 hours from LAX, it’s easy to get to from anywhere in the country, and it makes a great stop on a driving tour of the California coast.


The resort is separated from the Pacific Ocean by a quiet two lane road used primarily by local residents.   In summer, butlers tend to guests soaking up the sun on quiet Butterfly Beach. A huge lawn area gives kids (and pets) plenty of room to run around, or play a game of croquet. 



Music plays underwater in the centrally located Jungle Pool, and two hot tubs offer different temperatures to ensure everyone a comfortable place to relax.  While children are entertained in the complimentary Kids for All Seasons program, parents can enjoy the huge spa, rated #1 in the US by TripAdvisor.

All rooms are beautifully furnished, but the cottages are the real gem of this resort. They are comprised of 4 units:  a 1 bedroom suite plus 3 more bedrooms, which can be booked separately, or connected to make up to a 4 bedroom cottage.  The main building has standard rooms and suites as well, many of which are connecting.  Room size and décor is similar across the property, except cottage rooms have hardwood floors instead of carpeting.  Deluxe rooms have outdoor seating areas, and one bedrooms suites all have a king bed and sofa bed and a steam shower.  All the rooms are unique, accented with antiques and beautiful tile work in the bathrooms.

And if that isn’t enough, families can stroll across the street to the exclusive and historic Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club.  Today there is no longer a casino, but it does have its own fitness center, restaurant lined with pictures of Hollywood “royalty,” and a large lap pool.   An oceanfront  hot tub and children’s wading pool offer the best sunset views on the property.  Club access is complimentary for some room categories, but clients who book with me receive admission as part of the Preferred Partner amenity package.

 The other Four Seasons Preferred Partner amenities include: 

  • Daily full American breakfast for two people per bedroom
  • $100 food and beverage credit
  • Upgrade based on availability at time of check-in (excluding signature suites and villas)
  • Complimentary high-speed Internet access for suites
For more information on planning a family getaway to Santa Barbara, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.


I live in northern California, but travel regularly to Anaheim for my son’s hockey games.  While we usually have a tight schedule, we always try to fit in at least one fun family activity for my daughter’s benefit.  Last year, we visited the Long Beach aquarium, which was really fun despite being much smaller than my beloved Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Southern California sunset
SoCal sunset 

Since the Thanksgiving tournament fell late in the month this year, it overlapped with the beginning of the gray whale migration. I have been hearing that marine mammal sightings along the California coast have been exceptional this year, they’re having a feeding frenzy due to unusually high numbers of anchovies.  Passengers on whale watch cruises are being treated to some of the best shows in decades, amazing even experienced marine biologists.

While everyone else headed out shopping on Black Friday, we headed to Dana Pointonly a half hour drive from our Anaheim hotel, which took us through San Juan Capistrano, with its famous mission and sparrows.  We booked a 2 hour whale watch tour with Dana Wharf Sportfishing and Whale Watching, and I was a little concerned as we woke to a pretty good rain.  But by the time we arrived for our mid-afternoon cruise, the showers had stopped.  It was still cloudy, but I consider these perfect conditions for being on the water, as overcast skies make for more dramatic pictures, and there’s less glare off the water. 
SUP at Dana Point
Paddleboarder at Dana Point
Whale watching tours are available year round, as different types of whales have different migration seasons. And many marine animals including dolphins, sea lions, and the elusive orcas can be spotted year-round.  I even saw a great white shark on Dana Wharf’s sighting log for October!  Gray and humpback whales migrate between December and March, traveling south to Mexico in winter, then heading back north in the spring. We heard that the migration had started early this year, and in fact Dana Wharf had spotted their first gray whale a few days earlier, so we were optimistic as we headed out. 
The boat was very comfortable, with plenty of seating at tables on the top deck, and even more indoor seating below.  The main deck also had space to walk entirely around the ship, so there was always a good vantage point. A small galley offered grill items such as hot dogs and hamburgers, hot and cold drinks, and a good variety of snacks including popcorn, chips and fruit roll-ups.   The water was very calm so the ride was smooth, and the captain kept up an interesting and educational conversation.

Dana Wharf Sportfishing and Whalewatching
Ready to cruise with Dana Wharf
Our first stop was a buoy loaded with sea lions, and nearby a large bull entertained us with water acrobatics.  I am always amazed how these creatures can hurl themselves several feet out of the water to get on solid ground (or metal, in this case).

sea lions on buoy at dana point
Catching some rays

It wasn’t long before the captain announced that he spotted a gray whale, and he quickly turned the boat to follow it.  We cruised slowly as the whale swam parallel to the coast, dipping in and out of the water and giving us a good look at the barnacles on its back. Fortunately for us, it was a “fluker.”  Each time it went into a deep dive, it gave us a nice flip of its fluke before disappearing for 5-10 minutes.  

gray whale fluke
A whale watching highlight
It went on like this for over an hour, until it was time to head back to the marina.  While we enjoyed the views of the coastline and snacked on warm popcorn, one of the crew members came by with a chart of marine mammals, so we could learn more about the whale we had been watching and ask questions.
Ritz Carlton Laguna Niguel
Laguna Niguel shoreline
(Ritz Carlton on the bluff)

I am eager to go whale watching again soon, as every trip is different and you’ll never know what you might see. As we get further in the season there will be more whales, and they’ll be traveling closer to shore with their babies as they had back north.

Dana Wharf Sportfishing and Whale Watching is located at Dana Point Harbor, which has plenty of free parking plus many shops and restaurants. Tickets for the Catalina Express can also be purchased there, which I hope to try out on another visit.  The Catalina Islands are just a 90 min boat ride away, making it an easy day trip or weekend getaway.
Just a few miles north of the harbor is the Ritz Carlton Laguna Niguel, a fantastic resort for families any time of year.  It’s perched on a cliff, so it offers stunning ocean views, and quick access to a nice beach.  The hotel was decorated for the holidays, including an elaborate gingerbread display.  

Ritz Carlton Laguna Niguel gingerbread display
Huge gingerbread display!
Ritz Carlton Laguna Niguel Holiday Surfboard Auction
Surfboard Auction

We also enjoyed looking at the custom-painted surfboards lined up for their annual holiday auction to benefit Surfers Healingan organization that helps people with autism experience surfing.  Virtuoso amenities for my clients are daily breakfast, an upgrade based on availability, and a $100 resort credit.

Ritz Carlton Laguna Niguel
Gorgeous full ocean views

Ritz Carlton Laguna Niguel beach
View of beach from the resort

This Ritz Carlton was one of the first resorts to offer the award winning Eco Adventure Program, created by Jean-Michel Cousteau, which offers unique excursions for children and families to showcase the area’s natural wonders and promote environmental responsibility.  In fact, on our whale watch cruise, two Eco Adventure staff members were escorting a family as part of their whale education program.  The program is being expanded to more resorts, including Dorado Beach (Puerto Rico), St. Thomas, and Grand Cayman.


For help with planning a fun family getaway, just send a note to suzette@family-treks.com.

The last leg our Alaska journey was three nights at Denali National Park.  Most visitors arrive by train or motor coach, but if you have an independent spirit, I highly recommend renting a car.  It’s a 4-5 hour drive from Anchorage, but allow a full day because there are lots of stops and spectacular Denali views along the way (weather permitting).  If you have time, I recommend spending a few nights in Talkeetna.  You can also drive south from Fairbanks, which is only 2 hours away.

Here’s what you miss if you choose to rely on the park and hotel shuttle systems:

1)   A stay at Tonglen Lake Lodge – This is the newest and most luxurious lodging near Denali, in a beautiful and serene lakeside setting.  It was perfect for our family, but as I always recommend when selecting vacation accommodations, do your homework to make sure it’s the best fit for you. 

Tonglen Lake Lodge, AlaskaTonglen Lake, Alaska
2)   Avoiding busloads of people – Since most visitors are using shuttle buses, they travel in groups from place to place.  Often we were in a café or the visitor center with only a few other people, until a bus pulled up, and then all tables were filled and lines went out the door.  If you can work your stops around the bus schedule, you can have some of the exhibits to yourself.

3)   Leisurely scenic drives– The 15 miles of park road out to the Savage Creek checkpoint are open to private vehicles.  You can drive it at a leisurely pace any time of day.  You never know what you might see!

Denali National Park
Moose in Denali National Park 

4)   Going on an impromptu hike – There are several trails that lead out of the park entrance area.  But if you drive out to Savage Creek you’ll find not only a parking area with picnic tables and restrooms, but two trails that can be covered in just a few hours:  an easy loop trail along a pretty braided creek, and more strenuous hike up to a panoramic view.
Hiking in Denali National Park
Trail in Denali National Park

5)   Eating at 229 Parks, the best restaurant in the area – This is a hidden gem, and since it’s 8 miles south of the park entrance, you won’t get there without your own car, as there are no taxis.   The menu is full of interesting dishes made with fresh local ingredients, ranging from their own handcrafted lemonade to homemade pasta and pastries, and of course salmon, halibut, and king crab dishes.

6)   Visiting the 49th State Brewing Company– This is a local favorite 10 miles north of the park in Healy.   They have good food in huge portions at reasonable prices, and of course, good beer (and homemade root beer for the kids).  You can also see the infamous bus used in the film Into the Wild, based on the book by Jon Krakauer.

"Into The Wild" bus in Alaska
7)   Spending quality time with the sled dogs – The kennels are always open to guests, and demonstrations are offered several times a day.  Visitors are encouraged to take a shuttle from the visitor center, however there is limited parking within walking distance.   If you can arrive before the shuttle, then you have the dogs and their trainers to yourselves.  You can also stay after the demonstration if you have additional questions, and watch the dogs get unhitched, which was surprisingly entertaining, as well.
Alaskan sled dog
To view more pictures of Denali Park, visit my Flickr album.  And stay tuned for an upcoming post about our trip deep into the park on the NPS shuttle bus. (Update:  here is the post.)

I have traveled all over the state, so I am happy to help you plan an amazing Alaska adventure for your family.  Just contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.

I love Talkeetna because it’s an interesting and historic town.   But also because, despite having lots of tourists, it does not feel as touristy as other popular Alaska destinations.    Sure, there are signs hawking souvenirs and sightseeing tours, but most of the buildings haven’t changed for decades, and it’s a hub of activity for bush pilots and mountaineers, as this is the jumping off point for Mt. McKinley treks and flightseeing tours.  (Talkeetna is closer to Mt. McKinley than the Denali National Park entrance, and has spectactular views on clear days.)

Talkeetna, Alaska


Downtown Talkeetna
 

Our home for 3 nights was the charming Fireweed Station Inn, a historic homestead carefully restored and modernized, and now recognized on the National Register of Historic Places.  We thoroughly enjoyed the company of our hosts, Hobbs and Tom, who shared stories of their life in Alaska, and cooked up delicious breakfasts incorporating fresh vegetables and herbs from their garden.  And they will cook a private dinner on request as well!




Talkeetna Bed & Breakfast
Hobbs & Tom
 
FIreweed Station Inn, Talkeetna, Alaska
Fireweed Station Inn
 

The inn is small so it’s imperative to book early.  Two rooms on the main floor are comfortable and spacious, and families will find lots of space in the suite which takes up the whole second floor.  A cabin is also available for guests who want more privacy.




Fireweed Station Inn, Talkeetna, Alaska
Suite at Fireweed Station Inn

Talkeetna is not a large town, but it does offer several other accommodation options,.  They range from the large modern Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, favored by cruise passengers and escorted tour groups, to rustic cabins along the river.   Princess’s Mt. McKinley Lodge is about an hour away, but it has a spectacular mountainside setting facing the Alaska Range, and they run regular shuttles to Talkeetna.

 



Alaska Range
Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge back deck view

Though I am not much more than an avid day hiker, I am fascinated with the sport of mountaineering.   So I found the Historical Society Museum especially interesting, as one building is dedicated to the history of Denali climbing.  It contained an impressive scale model of Mt McKinley which filled an entire room, each layer cut by hand, using a topo map for reference.  The museum is worth a visit for anyone, to learn about the history of the area and what life was like for early settlers.





Model of Mt. McKinley
Photos on the wall show the actual view from each angle.

We followed that up with a visit to the NPS station, where all climbers have to register and get briefed on mountain procedures.  They have a very good film that details the route to the summit and the preparation required.   I would imagine this is a fascinating place to be during climbing season (April through June), seeing both the climbers who are heading out, and the ones who’ve just got back.

There are a lot of fun activities available, another good reason to spend a few days here.  Most popular are the flightseeing tours, for close up views of the mountain and optional glacier landings.  Mountain weather is fickle, however, so travelers have to be prepared for last minute cancellations.


Talkeetna is located at the confluence of three rivers:  the Susitna, Chulitna and Talkeetna, so travelers have many opportunities to get out on the water.  Because the rivers are wide and braided, you’ll find float trips rather than whitewater rafting, which is available further north near Denali N.P.  
 




Float trip on the Big Su
Looking for wildlife on the Susitna River



 Jet boat tours are an option if you aren’t comfortable sitting on the edge of an inflated raft for a few hours, and want more protection from the elements.   And of course, there’s fishing, probably one of the most popular activities in the state.  Off the river, travelers can visit a dog sled kennel, go zip-lining, hiking, or take an ATV tour (note minimum age is 16, per state law).




Jet boat tour
Small jet boat departing the dock.
If you have a car, check out Kahiltna Birchworks.  It’s on the Spur Road just off the Parks Hwy, so a quick and easy stop on the drive between Denali and Anchorage.  Every gift shop in the state seems to sell birch syrup products, and this is where they all come from.  The presentation lasts about 10-15 min, and then you get to taste the different grades of syrup which have different uses, some of which can only be purchased here.

Birch syrup processing
 
Getting to Talkeetna is easy – you can arrive by train, bus, car, or plane.  But once you get there, if you don’t have your own vehicle, you have to rely on shuttles, as there are no rental cars or taxis in town.  If you are independent and like to explore off the beaten path (and if you want to stay at Fireweed Station), then you need a car. 
 
It’s easy, interesting, and fun to drive through interior Alaska.  I am happy to help other adventurous families plan their own itinerary through the Great Land, just send an email to suzette@family-treks.com.

We left Juneau via a pretty flight over glaciers for our 2 night stay in Anchorage. Despite the fact that I have traveled all over the state of Alaska, I had never been in downtown Anchorage before.  So I was excited to explore someplace new.

Flying over glaciers in Alaska

The Captain Cook Hotel is by far the favorite of most visitors, whether traveling by car, train, or cruise.  It’s a great hotel run by a longtime Alaska family, and a major hub of activity.  We wanted something quieter, so we stayed in a small B&B a couple blocks away, the Copper Whale Inn.  I really enjoy the bed and breakfast experience, but it’s not for everyone.  And since all inns are different, it’s important to know what to expect to make sure it’s a good fit.

Copper Whale Inn, Anchorage, Alaska
Porch and garden at Copper Whale Inn
 
Copper Whale Inn, Anchorage, Alaska
Room at The Copper Whale Inn



Captain Cook Hotel, Anchorage, Alaska
Captain Cook Hotel Lobby

Here’s my top ten list of things to do while visiting Anchorage.


1.    Visit the Anchorage Alaska Center located in the historic Old Federal Building.  I highly recommend the movie about the 1964 earthquake.  It’s good to watch at the start of your trip so you can watch for sights mentioned.

 

2.    Rent bikes for a ride along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail.   You’ll find Earthquake Park interesting if you watched the movie in the visitor center.

Bicycle trail in Anchorage


3.    Hike to Flat Top Mountain in Chugach State Park for 360 degree views.

4.    Have a cup of coffee at the historic Fur Rondy shop, which is home to the Dog Mushing Hall of Fame.    A statue outside marks the ceremonial starting location for the Iditarod, and on Wednesday afternoons you can meet a musher and his dog.




Iditarod Race ceremonial start
Statue dedicated to dogs & mushers,
often referred to as the “Balto Statue”



5.    Spend a day driving south of Anchorage about 40 miles to visit Girdwood and Alyeska Resort.

6.    Drive 9 miles further south to take the 1 hour Portage Glacier Cruise.
 
Portage Glacier, Alaska

7.    On the way back to Anchorage, stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center to see rescued bears, moose, musk ox, bison, caribou, and brown and black bears.  There are lots of cute babies, too!

Brown bear at Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center
 
Bison at Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center

8.    Visit the Captain Cook Monument on the waterfront at Resolution Park.

9.    Drive 45 miles north to the Iditarod Race Headquarters in Wasilla. (This is also a good stop on the way to Talkeetna or Denali).   You can see videos and memorabilia about the history of the race, see the actual trophy, and take a dog sled ride.
 
Sled dog puppy
4 week old puppy




Iditarod trophy
Original Iditarod trophy, retired in 1999

10.  On weekends visit the Anchorage Market and Festival, Alaska’s largest open air market.  You can grab a bite in the Eat Local section, and find souvenirs at good prices.

Anchorage market

If you’d like assistance planning your own custom Alaskan adventure, just drop me a note at suzette@family-treks.com.

After Glacier Bay, we headed to Juneau for a 2 night stay.  Our destination was the Westmark Baranof, a full service hotel at the edge of the historic downtown.  It was close enough to walk easily to everything, but with fewer crowds around.  They had a room perfect for our family with a teen boy and girl: it had a queen bed, a single bed, and single sofa sleeper.   Historic hotels have their shortfalls (like no A/C, which is really not an issue in Juneau), but also unique features which I actually found useful: a walk-in closet (it held a couple suitcases which kept our floor clear), built-in shelves in the small but modern bath (room for 4 toiletry kits!), and a full length shelf along one wall which was useful for stashing small items like books, backpacks, wine, etc.  Parking and wifi were free, and breakfast in the café was very good.  There is also a fine dining restaurant, bar, and meeting facilities.


Westmark Baranof hotel, Juneau, Alaska
“Standard Double” room

I like staying overnight in Juneau because you get to see how the vibe in the Inside Passage towns change when the cruise ships leave.  On our first evening, we had dinner at the Red Dog Saloon.  Most passengers had to be back onboard the ships by 7 pm, so the place was packed when we walked in at 6, but completely empty by 6:30.  The second night ships were in port until 10 pm, so restaurants were full later in the evening.


Juneau, Alaska
Juneau with and without cruise ships

 




Alaska cruise ships
Ship getting ready to leave

Juneau is the most touristy town along the Inside Passage, with lots of stores selling jewelry, t-shirts, ulu knives, you name it.   If you head out of town, you won’t necessarily escape the crowds, but you will find fun things to do besides shopping.
 
Almost everyone visits Mendenhall Glacier, and it really is worth a stop even though it can be crowded.  Because we were there when the salmon was running, we had a once in a lifetime treat: watching bears catch salmon in the stream right by the parking lot!

Yes, these are wild bears, and one even had 2 cubs with her.  Normally it would be unsafe to be this close.  But these bears are habituated to humans, so as long as observers are quite and keep food put away, they can continue to watch from a boardwalk right above the stream.    



Black bear catching salmon
Dinner!

A short walk leads to the visitor center, where you can get your first glimpse of this famous glacier.  Then a 1 mile trail leads out to the edge of the lake for a closer view.   To get right up close to the glacier, you can hike about 7 miles round trip on West Glacier trail located across the lake, or book a kayak tour for an easy paddle on the calm lake.




Mendenhall Glacier
Best view from visitor center trails




Mendenhall Glacier ice
Getting to touch some glacial ice

One of our favorite places to visit is the Macauley salmon hatchery which is especially interesting July through September, with tens of thousands of salmon swimming in from the ocean.  The hatchery has an artificial ladder, so we spent a good 20-30 minutes watching salmon fight their way up with acrobatic moves.  There is a short presentation outdoors by the staff at regular intervals, and then you can pay extra for a behind the scenes tour.  Inside are salt water aquariums, a live video feed of the workers in back, a nursery for the babies, and a gift shop offering samples of salmon jerky.  
 


Salmon ladder
Thousands of salmon are entering the ladder



Salmon jumping up a ladder
He (she?) made it!

 

And no trip to Juneau is complete without a stop at the Alaskan Brewery Company.  They have a storefront downtown, where you can catch a shuttle out to the brewery for a tour.  But if you have a car it’s much better to go on your own and avoid the crowds.
 
Another popular attraction is the Mount Roberts Tramway located right at the cruise port.  The ticket cost includes unlimited all day rides, a film, and entrance to a bald eagle display and nature center.  There are also bear viewing platforms, hiking trails for all abilities (including a trek to the top of Mt. Roberts) and a bar and grill.  Hardy travelers can also hike up from downtown and ride the gondola back for a much lower fee.

Mt. Roberts tram

 
Two nights was just the right amount of time, and we headed back to the airport for the next leg of our trip: Anchorage.
 
If you’d like to plan your own adventure in Alaska, be it by cruise ship or on your own like we did, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.